CanUK's Build Thread

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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon bill » 5. Mai 2015, 10:48

Where do you get the clear tube from? (Breakfluidtube)


[url]http://www.stahlbus.de/entlueftungssystem/zubehoer/bremse-entlueften-entluefterschlauch-0-5m.html
[/url]

Sie nenen ihn Entluefterschlauch aber er ist auch fuer Deinen Zweck gut.
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon CanUK » 5. Mai 2015, 13:14

Alas, the sticky stud-stub has snapped off flush with the head. :cry: Plenty of heat, wax, and tapping with a hammer were of no avail. Gripped it with the Knipex Cobras, applied firm but gentle force- thought I heard it crack loose, but a moment later the protruding part of the stud had broken off. :shock: :o :? :cry:

I'm not sure there's any point in trying to drill it and use an easy-out; at just 6mm I'm afraid I'll either drill off-centre or snap the easy-out and make matters worse. So it seems I'll need to rope in the professionals -hoping they might be able to do something without needing the engine removed.
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon dennis121181 » 5. Mai 2015, 22:03

I had the same problem at my xl 500. I drilled with a hss-co drill and used a helicoil.

It wasn't funny.

LG Dennis
9 von 10 Stimmen in meinem Kopf sagen mir das ich ganz normal bin, die andere summt die Melodie von Tetris.
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon bill » 6. Mai 2015, 10:11

you can drill it out. I have done it several times, but you cannot do that free-hand. Best to do it with a milling machine using a 5mm endmill.
core drill for M6 is 4,9mm so you aought to be able to clean up the threading, carefully using a M6 tap. If worse come to worse, you can always enlarge to 1/4"-20. UNCis a better threading for aluminum anyway. Even better might be Whitworth 1/4"

Whitworth thread sizes[4]
Whitworth size (in) - Core diameter (in) - Threads per inch - Pitch (in) - Tapping drill size
1/4" ----------------0.1860"-------------20----------0.05------Number Drill 9 (5.1 mm)

Whitworth thread have 55º including angle as opposed to Metric 60º . that along with the coarser thread 20/1" instead of the metric pitch of 1mm = 25 per inch give a better hold in soft metals. UNC has, like metric, a 60º angle. Thus Whitworth is definitely to be preferred.

Don't attempt to use a so-called Easy-Out. That will snap off quicker than the stud did.
Possible exeption would be a "multispine extractor" from Snapon, Cataloge Nº. REX104A
https://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=635483&group_ID=675457
Bild

like everything from Snapon, they actually work.
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon CanUK » 6. Mai 2015, 13:38

Cheers Bill. I've had a local engineer advise against hand-drilling as well. He's recommended welding a nut on (through the hole of the nut of course) as a likely solution. I need to send him some pics so he can see whether he thinks he has the access to do the work with the engine in place, and if so I then need to figure out how to move the bike. Buy a van, or buy a trailer... decisions.
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon CanUK » 6. Mai 2015, 23:24

A few more bits arrived today.

More Ti bolts. These are for the suspension linkage. I don't need this many but it was the same price to buy 4 of the longer bolts with a tapered cap head, than a single one of the same dimensions with a flange head.

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And a new seat (GSXR). These pics are not great - it's difficult to get a decent shot in the narrow garage. Also the subframe is not attached at the bottom and tilted up slightly so it gives the seat an unnatural angle. I like it, but I also think it might be a bit wide-looking (the angles of the pics definitely exaggerate that though). I've started thinking maybe an RS125 seat or similar for more of a Moto 2 look? Then again I think Rocco has the same seat and it doesn't look too wide on his, so maybe it just needs the front fairing on to balance it out.

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And just to keep things cheery, I took this pic out the back window this eve. Unfortunately landing in a field of gold and not a pot of gold, but still nice to see:

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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon Rocco » 7. Mai 2015, 11:23

Yes I think it's GSX-R 750 K4. But my was a version with the original seat. I have shorten it significantly so that the tail does not look so long. I think, about 5-10 cm to yours.

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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon CanUK » 7. Mai 2015, 22:19

Rocco hat geschrieben:Yes I think it's GSX-R 750 K4. But my was a version with the original seat. I have shorten it significantly so that the tail does not look so long. I think, about 5-10 cm to yours.


Cheers Rocco -very helpful as usual :D I'm still on the fence though, and the more I look at the RS125 seat the more I like it. I'm thinking I might order one and see -then sell the one I won't use.

Right, another minor update today- these Ti items arrived:

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The M12 nuts and washers are for the linkage. The M6 bolts were for here:

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...and here:

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...and here:

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The total savings (over the original Renthal and Brembo radial master steel bolts) for the 8 clip-on bolts and 2 brake master bolts is a jaw-dropping 32g :o :D

Still, the grams will add up. Plus they won't rust and they are lovely to look at (or will be once I wipe off the grubby fingerprints) :D

I'm still working on figuring out how to move my bike to where I can get the broken exhaust stud extracted. :?
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon bill » 8. Mai 2015, 10:14

don't want to put a fly in the oinment but for all the things shown in the last mail, I use aluminum bolts and always have. None of that requires Ti (or steel) bolts, let alone anything approaching a high tightening torque. On the contrary, in racing all those things are tightened only enuf to keep them from moving but loose enuf for them to move if you fall - instead of breaking...

Triple trees are something entirely other but even so, maximum torque on the Paioli fork is 12mkg for the bottom clamps. Even an aluminum bolt can do that easily.

I am curious how you plan to adapt the Ti bolts for the rear dogbones. the orginal bolts have a shoulder and a thinner thread than the shaft Ø.


torques.jpg
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Re: CanUK's Build Thread

Beitragvon CanUK » 8. Mai 2015, 21:02

Hi Bill,

The Ti bolts are overkill for the master cylinder and clip ons for sure but they were cheap enough (£1.70 for M6 x20mm), and they are torqued to the recommended specs (off the top of my head it was 10Nm for the Brembo MC, and 9Nm for the Renthal clip-ons).

The rear dogbones - I did spot that the original bolts drop to I believe M10 (from M12) at the shoulder, but I'm pretty sure it's after it passes through the dogbone. In any case, assuming I do get them installed (tomorrow I think) I'll be sure that there's free movement. If I'm missing a detail otherwise I'd be grateful to know about it of course :)
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